In Gustavus . . Spent the afternoon on a whale-watching boat. Incredible! There was a pod of about 12 humpbacks that we followed around for nearly 3 hours. We saw one breach over a dozen times! Tomorrow we have an all day cruise up into glacier bay. I'll write more when we get more substantial access to the internet. I though you probably wanted to hear that we hadn't found any bears on our last day in Sitka. The youth hostel we stayed in last night was a real trip. more later. . . .